1 West Cordova Street, Vancouver
Advice: Advance reservations a must.
With it’s contemporary German focus, the kitchen is run by Michelin star Chef Stefan Hartmann who came from Berlin, he is not only a perfectionist he is also so passionate about the ingredients he uses in his cooking. Owned by Film Director, Uwe Boll he is as passionate as his chef in offering a high-end modern German dining experience. The restaurant’s high ceilings and openness along with the large open kitchen is welcoming as is the large ‘Art’ Painting that adorns one of the walls. The washrooms were designed by Artist Olliemoonsta who decorated them with Berlin inspired graffiti freestyle. Not only is this unique and very different it adds an edginess to a high end dining experience with colour and vibrancy, making for a creative talking point.
My friend and fellow food writer Lawrence Ferber joined me while he was visiting Vancouver recently for the degustation tasting menu ($110 without wine or cocktail pairings). I had the suggested wine pairings while Lawrence had the bar manager match up each of the courses to the best cocktails. We both were eager to try their Weiner Schnitzel and each did a half order as a mid course in the middle of our tasting menu.
To tempt our palates we enjoyed an amuse bouche of Duck liver pate, Pumpkin seed, brioche
The degustation menu is comprised of 6 courses, for the first course we were served the stunning Poached trout, with a trout roe, lyonnaise sausage and white wine foam which was paired with the Rustico Gewürztraminer BC 2012. The next course was the delicious Spot Prawn with white and green asparagus, tarragon and housemade hollandaise, paired with the Villa Wolf, Pfalz Riesling 2013. For my third course I had the Quail done 2 ways with poached pear, green beans, in a quail jus, paired with the Produttori del Barbaresco Piedmont 2009.
Our Mid-course addition was the outstanding Wiener Schnitzel with white asparagus with hollaindaise and a lemon squeeze, paired with Breca” Garnacha Calatayud 2011.
Continuing on with the tasting menu, the fourth course the flavourful Sous Vide Veal with corn, on a bed of polenta was delicious, paired with the Valduero Ribera del Duero Reserva 2007; next course was the rich and delicious Veal cheeks with morels, salad hearts and brioche dumpling, paired with Petit Haut Lafitte’, Pessac-Leognan, France, 2010,. On to dessert which was the last course, I was served the outstanding Chocolate Bar with salted caramel ice cream with caramel sauce and blueberries that was paired with Port Fonseca Bin No. 27.
I was quite impressed with the tasting menu as well as the wine pairings that were paired spot on. You’ll find the wine list is a fine match to the food, as well, their cocktail line-up is top notch putting them in the ranks with the best cocktail lists in the city. This is a culinary gem worth your discovery and I can’t wait to return.
Review by: Richard Wolak