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Archive for the ‘Star Pastry Chefs’ Category

Interview with Mark Tagulao

Mark Tagulao | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver, within the interview each chef is to prepare or finish off three of his/her signature desserts.

As early as age 4, Mark was cooking alongside his mom, experimenting with food, and quickly developing his passion for creative cooking. After graduating from university, and going into banking,  Mark then left the world of finance to follow his passion and apprenticed with a local cake decorator before heading overseas. He then trained in the art of Pastry at the Macaron Pastry Training Center in Thailand where he was taught by famous French pastry chef, Eric Perez.   Mark returned to Vancouver and began to develop his career, mastering his pastry skills, cake decorating, sculpting, and eventually, recipe development and teaching.

Most recently, Mark showcased his sculpted custom cakes at Cake Love 2011, and appeared on the Food Network’s Recipe to Riches reality show, has been teaching at the Hungry Oven, a cooking school for kids and launched his own company Marked Edible Designs.

Did you always want to be a pastry chef?

No I wanted to become a lawyer at first, then a dentist. I was in HR then banking, then went into this industry professionally about 2 years ago.

Do you follow or apply a specific food design?

I like to take the traditional and remising combinations and I see everything and how it works, taking inspiration from everywhere.

Where do you get inspiration?

Cookbooks, tv, photography, paintings, sculptures, how things are put together (shapes and colours). Travelling and trying different dishes.

Tell me about your involvement with Cake Love

A group of 5 cake makers decided to create a cake decorating conference in Vancouver which took place in 2011. We are now planning the 2nd annual conference, bringing instructors from all over North America to Vancouver in October 2012.

Mark Tagulao and his Coca Cola Macarons

Is there a pastry chef or two that inspire you?

  • Adriano Zumbo (Australia)
  • Eric Perez (Thailand)

How would you describe your style of desserts/cakes at Marked Edible Designs?

A twist on old favourites.

What is your favourite Pastry Shop in Vancouver?

Sweet Revenge

What are your favourite cities in the world for pastries?

Sydney, Australia and Manilla, Philippines

The 1st Dessert:

Berry Macaron & Green Tea Macaron

Berry Macaron & Green Tea Macaron

What is in the dessert?

  • Using a mixed berry tea for the filling in the berry macaron.
  • Using a matcha tea for the filling in the green tea macaron.

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

I love tea, think of a recipe, create the filling, then create the macarons. Adapating recipes.

If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?

I think I would be teaching and working with people.

The 2nd Dessert:

Teapolitan Ice Cream Cake

Teapolitan Ice Cream Cake

What is in the dessert?

The ice cream layers were green tea, vanilla/cardamom and earl grey with an almond sponge base.

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

My love for tea, my friend bought me an ice cream machine for my birthday, I played around.

I understand you recently created the recipes for Cartems Donuterie, tell us how that came about?

Through a mutual friend of Jordan (co-owner of Cartems Donuterie) and I, connected us talking about ideas and then I created the base recipes for chocolate and vanilla and also some specialty flavours – Earl Grey, Bee Stings, and Gluten-free.

What types of dessert oriented products have you been designing/creating?

Cakes, macarons, cookies, ice creams, sugar sculpting, and chocolate making.

The 3rd Dessert:

Genoise Ube

Ube Genoise

What is in the dessert?

Ube essence infused sponge and buttercream.

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

One of my childhood favourites and its Filipino.

What kinds of classes do you teach?

Sugar pulling, chocolates, cake decorating, macarons.

What are the most unique flavours of Macarons you have made?

Coca Cola, and hopefully a S’mores will be next.

Check out Mark’s Gallery of Cakes

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Star Pastry Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak

Interview with Thomas Haas

Thomas Haas | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver, within the interview each chef is to prepare or finish off three of his/her signature desserts.

As a child, Thomas lived above his parents’ Black Forest café and bake shop in Germany, where he began helping out at the age of 10. At 16, he apprenticed 60 km away at Discher in Gengenbach for 4 years. Did 6 years working in other pastry shops. He did a Masters in pastry and business when he was 23, he graduated and worked in Switzerland. In 1995, after working in Switzerland and France, Thomas was hired as the Executive Pastry Chef by the Four Seasons Hotel in Vancouver. Three years later, he was off to New York as pastry chef to restaurateur Daniel Boulud.

How did you end up in Vancouver?

I was approached by the Four Seasons Hotel in Chicago at first, but I couldn’t say yes fast enough and I didn’t get the job. A year later I got a call from the Four Seasons Hotel in Vancouver wanting to hire me as their Executive Pastry Chef and within 2 weeks I had moved to Vancouver. After working a couple of years at the Four Seasons Vancouver, I was contacted by Daniel Boulud to come and work in NY at 65th & Park and I did that for 2-1/2 years, I had my 2 kids while I was in NY. Working for Daniel Boulud was an amazing experience. Then after a year of my extended 3 year contract I decided to make Vancouver home and resigned and moved. I got a job offer working for the owner of a few hotels to open Senses Bakery at the corner of Georgia and Howe. They wanted to serve chocolates but had no room to make them there. So I set up a “Willy Wonka” of sorts chocolate factory in my home basement and worked 8pm-3am every day for 2 months making chocolates to sell to Senses. A friend who had a commercial kitchen helped me out and they moved the production there. After 4 years I gradually made 20,000 chocolates a week selling to chefs all over the world from Hawaii to Palm Beach. This was my own company and it was a crazy amount of work, my customers had no idea that I slept 3-4 hours a day, worked at Senses during the day and worked making chocolates at night.

Did you always want to be a pastry chef?

I never questioned it because it was in my family for so many generations.

Do you follow or apply a specific food design?

What you see is the result of them thinking of everything they are making is based on thought.

Where do you get inspiration?

Just from working and from “So Good” magazine. Your environment influences you.

How do you start your day?

With a cappuccino and a morning pastry like an Almond Croissant, I also eat one dessert each day.

Did you ever think your Sparkle Cookies would become so popular? And what inspired you to create those?

A dessert that I made at Daniel in NY became the best selling dessert, Steamed Chocolate Souffle – I then changed it to a chocolate cookie and called them Sparkle Cookies because confectioners sugar was added on top. Food writers were in Vancouver and my cookies ended up on page 64 of the LA Times, then the Vancouver Sun, Food Network it went viral and then boom!

Chocolates or Pastries which came first?

Pastry in my life; in Vancouver chocolates.

Tell me about your connection with Singer Michael Buble?

I loved his music, played it in my kitchens, one day while I was on a trip in New York I was taking a 1st class flight back to Vancouver and I saw Michael Buble and went up to talk to him, we then ended up sitting next to each other in 1st class. It is a long story but I made his wedding cake.

The 1st Dessert:

Caramel & Chocolate Pecan Brownie Cake

Caramel & Chocolate Pecan Brownie Cake

What is in the dessert?

  • Chocolate pecan brownie
  • Dark caramel
  • Cremeux Bavarian

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

To really have a dessert to be scaled down to add simplicity. You get what it sounds Caramel and cake. We make it in all sizes from small to big.

Is there a pastry chef or two that inspire you?

  1. Oliver Bajard – in Dijon, France
  2. Frederick Bau – in Valrona, France

Which Pastry Confectionary Tradeshows are your favourite and where are they held?

Sirha in Lyon, France

What are your thoughts on Bacon & Chocolate?

Don’t screw around with mixing them together – I love bacon and I love chocolate but it goes so against my beliefs.

 

The 2nd Dessert:

White Chocolate Calamansi

White Chocolate Calamansi

What is in the dessert?

  • flourless almond coconut cake
  • Calamansi (Filipino lime) crème brulee
  • light white chocolate mousse

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

I looked at what we do and see what is missing and thought we needed a white chocolate cake.

How would you describe your style of pastries at Thomas Haas?

Contemporary and have a strong foundation of what works. Contemporary in the approach, pleasing but not boring.

Describe the most elaborate wedding cake you have ever made?

7 tier, 6’ foot 4” inches, 280 lbs wedding cake for the children of the owner of Boston Pizza. The groom asked for it to be that big so if it fell over it would kill some one.

Have you taken part in any pastry or chocolate competitions?

  • Pastry chef of the year in NY – in the top 3, twice.
  • National pastry competition in Los Angeles – I won all of the categories

What are your favourite Pastry Shops in the world (outside or your own) ?

  • Bouillet in Lyon, France – for his creativity
  • Lenotre in Paris, France – for its vast variety and quality

What are your favourite chocolate shops in the world (outside of your own) ?

  • La Mason du Chocolate in Paris – for classics and beautiful simplicity
  • Patrick Roger in Paris –for its creativity
  • Enrico Rovera in Barcelona – for innovation

What are your favourite cities in the world for pastries?

  • Paris – for density
  • Vienna – for classics

What are your favourite savoury dishes?

  • Salad Nicois at Mistral
  • Pink Peppercorn Steak at Le Crocodile

How many people are in your pastry kitchen? And tell me about your team.

19 and many have been with us for years, and some have been here for less.

If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Singer or a musician. Almost anything that could bring joy to others (except a clown)

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Star Pastry Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak

 

Interview with Hans Pirhofer

Hans Pirhofer | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver, within the interview each chef is to prepare or finish off three of his/her signature desserts.

I grew up in Insbruk, Austria where my family had a pastry shop for 35 years. I started helping out when I was 12 years old, at 15 I started an apprentiship at Konditorie Peintner for 3 years and made everything in house. I then worked as a pastry chef for the Corso Restaurant in Seefeld, a ski resort in Austria for 2 years. I then worked doing pastries in the family business for 5 years. I then moved to Marco Island in Florida and worked at the Marriott Hotel for 2 years as the pastry chef. I then came to Vancouver in 2000 and joined the Pan Pacific Hotel as the Chef de Partie for 8 years, was then promoted to Assistant Pastry Chef and in 2009 to head Pastry Chef.

Did you always want to be a pastry chef?

Yes it just happened, that’s all I have wanted to do until when I was older when I thought about being an architect.

Do you follow or apply a specific food design?

Keep it contemporary and trendy, from fashionable colours etc.

Where do you get inspiration?

Walking down Robson Street, cookbooks, magazines, anywhere and everywhere.

The 1st Dessert:

Caramelized Pineapple Tartin

Caramelized Pineapple Tartin

What is in the dessert?

Caramelized pineapple on top of eggnog parfait, caramelized chestnuts, crème anglaise and crème caramel and twill on top (bottom is a sweet dough cookie).

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

Like a Tarte Tatin, I wanted to make it more exotic and put in pineapple instead of apple and be cold not hot, and added eggnog for the Christmas flavour.

Is there a pastry chef or two that inspire you?

  • Jean Philippe – at the Bellagio hotel in Las Vegas
  • Thomas Peintner – in Austria

How would you describe your style of pastries at the Pan Pacific Vancouver?

  • Modern and classic.
  • Café Pacifica – more modern and trendy
  • Banquet desserts – are different with new flavours

The 2nd Dessert:

Chocolate Trilogy

Chocolate Trilogy

What is in the dessert?

1)    In photo –on left – Chocolate sour cherry tart with whipped cream baked black forest style

2)    In photo –middle – Sacher petit with apricot confit

3)    In photo –on right – Chocolate sorbet with orange foam and chocolate crumbs

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

Get traditional with modern, combined such as the Blackforest Cake and the Sacher.

Describe the most elaborate wedding cake you have ever made?

It was a 7 tier wedding cake, each tier had a different flavour and we had 2 people working on it.

  • Bottom layer – cassis chocolate
  • 2nd layer – chocolate layer
  • 3rd layer – lemon cream
  • 4th layer – cherry champagne
  • 5th layer – coffee opera cake
  • 6th layer –passionfruit layer cake
  • 7th layer – raspberry chocolate mousse

Outside of the whole cake was fondant covered and pastiche flowers and ornaments. The cake served 300 people and we made it in Austria.

What was the most recent competition that you took part in?

I was part of Team Canada competing in the World Gelato Competition in Italy in January 2012.

What is your favourite Pastry Shop in Vancouver?

Thomas Haas

What is your favourite city in the world for pastries?

Paris

The 3rd Dessert:

Lemon Brioche

Lemon Brioche

What is in the dessert?

Brioche filled with lemon cream, lemon almond crust on top, crème Anglais around.

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

I like to work with making bread, and wanted to make something with crunch.

How many people are in your pastry kitchen?

8

If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Architect

How do you make Caramelized Chestnuts?

Peel the chestnuts, caramelize the sugar, add brandy then add in the chestnuts, sits overnight to cook.

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Star Pastry Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak

Interview with Romeo Maghirang

Romeo Maghirang | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver, within the interview each chef is to prepare or finish off three of his/her signature desserts.

Originally from Manila, Romeo Maghirang started his culinary career as a steward, rising through the kitchen ranks though hard work and dedication.

In 1967 he started as a kitchen steward at the Manila Hilton. After seven months he asked for a transfer to the kitchen thinking cooking is a better skill than a dishwasher, he started in Garmanger cutting vegetables, brewing the coffee for the banquet, learning the a la carte menu for the four restaurants of the hotel. After four years, he moved to the bakery section and stayed there for a year, was then transferred to the pastry section. After eight years at the Hilton he moved to Manila Hotel to take the position of junior commis. After two years he was lucky to find a job at Elbow Beach in Bermuda where he was the assistant pastry chef and baker.

While in Bermuda he applied to immigrate to Canada.  His application to immigrate to Canada was approved and soon after he became the Chef de Partie at the Queen Elizabeth Hilton Hotel in Montreal.  While on holiday in Vancouver, Romeo fell in love with its beauty and culture; he decided to make it his home.  After arriving in Vancouver, he worked at Pohl’s Bakery and Conditorie for two years and then Pan Pacific Hotel where he joined his former pastry chef at Pohl’s. After 19 years as the Assistant Pastry Chef at the Pan Pacific Hotel, Romeo briefly retired in 2008, before he jumped back in the industry when the Pastry Chef at the Delta Burnaby Hotel and Conference Centre asked him to join his Pastry team. He has been at the Delta Burnaby since November 2008.

Did you always want to be a pastry chef?

No, I was studying to be an engineer, finances were tight and I needed a job to support my education. Hilton was hiring and since it is just fifteen minutes away from my school I applied for the lowest position: kitchen steward. I was hired and I was then a working student.

Do you follow or apply a specific food design?

I just mix and match, sometimes I use the old style ingredients and fusion with modern presentation.

Where do you get inspiration?

Sometimes from good pastry chefs, from books, Magazines such as Tchures (mostly French then) now (mostly Spanish) as well as German and Austrian influences.

The 1st Dessert:

Assorted Truffles & Chocolate Tree

Assorted Truffles & Chocolate Tree

What is in the dessert?

Chocolate tree – Calebaut dark chocolate

White chocolate flowers truffles

Pink Hawaiin salted caramel truffles

Raspberry pate with wasabi ganache

Is there a pastry chef or two that inspire you?

Ted Hara – I worked with him at the Pan Pacific Hotel for 19 years. He retired and then went to the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts to teach. I also worked with him at a Polish bakery for 2 years before the Pan Pacific.

The 2nd Dessert:

Bledermeiertorte

Bledermeiertorte

What is in the dessert?

Bottom – Japanese meringue with hazelnut

Apricot jam

Hazelnut mousse & chocolate mousse and caramelized hazelnut

Sweetened whipped cream

Top – Covered with dark calebaut chocolate

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

You, I thought what dessert could I make and since you asked me to create something new this is what I created. You were coming in to interview me on July 28th and since I knew it was your 2nd Anniversary for Vancouver Foodster I decided to creating something special.

How would you describe your style of pastries at EBO?

Fusion and modern and classical for the pastries in the restaurant, and a simpler style for the banquets.

Describe the most elaborate wedding cake you have ever made?

Six tier wedding cake with sugar gum paste (harder fondant), cut out and made a design, let it dry and stick together.

What is your favourite Pastry Shop in Vancouver?

Thomas Haas

What is your favourite city in the world for pastries?

New York

The 3rd Dessert:

Peanut Butter Ice Cream Tower with warm soft brownie

Peanut Butter Ice Cream Tower with warm soft brownie

What is in the dessert?

Peanut butter ice cream

Warm chocolate sauce

Mango gelee

Raspberry cassis brush

Chocolate brownie

 

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

Combined different shapes and textures

How many people are in your pastry kitchen?

Me and 2 more assistants

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Star Pastry Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak

Interview with Arthur Chen

Arthur Chen| Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver, within the interview each chef is to prepare or finish off three of his/her signature desserts.

Arthur trained at the Sheraton in Shanghai for 6 months as a pastry artist, then opened the Sheraton in Tianjin as the pastry chef. He then moved to the USA to work as a chef/hospitality at Walt Disney World in Florida for 2 years. Then moved to Vancouver worked at the Fairmont Waterfront for awhile then worked at the Pan Pacific Vancouver for 10 years from 1998-2008. He then worked to open the Delta Burnaby Hotel in 2009 and then worked to open the Fairmont Pacific Rim in 2010 and where he is currently. While working he had been competing in a variety of pastry competitions over the years winning many gold medals. Some of the competitions that he has participated in were:  Pastry Coach of Culinary Team Canada 2008; Pastry Chef of Culinary Team Canada 2005-2007; Pastry Chef of Culinary Team British Columbia, 2004; Pastry Team Canada 2002 WPTC, Las Vegas; and Pastry Artist of Culinary Team British Columbia, 2000.

Did you always want to be a pastry chef?

I wanted to be an artist, spent time drawing, claying and sculpting. Then when I grew up I wanted to be an architect, an opportunity opened up back home in China, at the Sheraton hotel and I was asked to become a pastry chef.

Do you follow or apply a specific food design?

I have my own creativity to create cakes and desserts in house.

Where do you get inspiration?

I get a lot of ideas from the competitions that I have competed in, flavour ideas and ingredients with some from Asia since this hotel has a large Asian clientele.

The 1st Dessert:

8 Texture Chocolate Dessert

8 Texture Chocolate Dessert

What is in the dessert?

  • Chocolate sauce
  • Chocolate streusel
  • Chocolate sorbet
  • Chocolate mouse
  • Dry chocolate mouse
  • Chocolate garnish
  • Candied cocoa nibs
  • Chocolate ganache cake
  • Top layer chocolate
  • Bottom layer crunchy coconut

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

Chef David Wong’s idea to put all the chocolate ingredients together—its been popular since day 1 and is still on the ORU dessert menu.

Is there a pastry chef or two that inspire you?

Ted Hara – was a pastry chef at the Pan Pacific Hotel, now a teacher at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. I worked for him for 10 years from the cooking side to personal leader in competitions.

Edward Notter – sugar master who owns the Notter Pastry School in Florida.

The 2nd Dessert:

Sugar Bun

Sugar Bun

What is in the dessert?

  • Brioche dough
  • Butter
  • Sugar
  • Pastry cream
  • Whipping cream

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

This was created by one of our bakers in the hotel, but its an American idea with a little Italian thrown in.

How would you describe your style of pastries at ORU? And at Giovane?

In ORU it is Pan Asian ingredients in a more North American style.

In Giovane it is more Italian style, Americana coffee shop. Everything is huge, we have created our own ‘signature’ cakes (Martha Stewart style).

Describe the most elaborate wedding cake you have ever made?

It was a Raspberry, flourless sponge for a Persian wedding at the Delta Burnaby Hotel for 400 people – it was gluten free and dairy free. First I created a cake in 4 tiers that was a cake with only one corner to slice for the bride & groom. Then I made a slab cake to cut for all the guests. A year later the same lady tracked me down here at the Fairmont and ordered the same cake for her 1st year anniversary.

What is your favourite Pastry Shop in Vancouver?

Thomas Haas

What is your favourite city in the world for pastries?

Luxembourg

The 3rd Dessert:

Teardrop Chocolate Ganache Cake

Teardrop Chocolate Ganache Cake

What is in the dessert?

  • Almond cookie base (bottom layer)
  • Ganache layer
  • Flourless sponge cake
  • Vanilla cream
  • Raspberry jelly
  • Cream
  • Flourless sponge
  • Chocolate mouse
  • Chocolate glaze to give a shiny appearance
  • Topped with fruits etc

What was your inspiration behind this dessert?

I created this cake which I used for one of my competitions in Germany in 2004. I wanted to do a different shape to make it interesting.

How many people are in your pastry kitchen?

8 people in the pastry kitchen – out of that 4-1/2 people are doing Giovane from bread to cookies to biscotti and sugar buns; and the rest are doing the banquets, in room dining, desserts, restaurant and afternoon tea.

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Star Pastry Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak

Interview with Chris Janik

Chris Janik | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver.

What is your role at Miku Restaurant? Please describe in detail.

I am the Pastry Chef and I am responsible for all the desserts. Every two days I add two new dessert features, the dessert menu can change quite often. I joined Miku so I could have the freedom to create and the GM and staff welcomed me and gave me the freedom.

Where did you do your training to become a Pastry Chef?

I trained in Vancouver at VCC in a 1 year program.

How long have you been involved in the restaurant industry?

12 years

Where did you work prior to joining Miku?

I worked at Urban Fare in the bakery when they first opened as the Pastry Chef and then worked in the same position at Super Valu in Coquitlam. I then worked at Cioppino’s Restaurant in Yaletown and then came to Miku.

What are your favourite three desserts that you make?

1) Pannecota

2) Passion Fruit Sorbet

3) Chocolate Chestnut Slice

What do you most love about being a pastry chef?

To be creative, invent interesting textures, the activity, always wanted to present the true flavours especially in sorbet.

Have you been competing in a pastry award competition?

I haven’t yet however, I would be interested to compete in the future.

What tips would you offer young pastry chefs just getting started?

Inventing your own recipes and being aware of what is happening around you.

What cities do you like for culinary travel?

Paris and Vienna

I understand you were in Europe recently, tell us about one of the places you visited that provided you inspiration and ideas for your pastry making.

I went to see Sudaharu Aoki in Paris, France. It is a Japanese pastry shop that makes wonderful pastries, I wanted to see what they were presenting to their French clientele.

What are your goals and dreams as a pastry chef?

One day to return to Krakow, Poland where I grew up and open my own pastry shop there.

I love your Chocolate Chestnut Cake, tell me what inspired you to create this?

Chocolate Opera Cake, I wanted to change it and Japanese flavours, I replaced the ganache with chestnuts (Japanese people love chestnuts). Dalloyou in Paris is the home of Opera Cake).

What do you consider to be the five must have ingredients in your pantry?

Flour, Sugar, Eggs, Milk and Cocoa

Who are some of your mentors? What have you learned from them?

Thomas Haas – he was the first to bring in quality products, I like how he displays and serves his products.

If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?

When I was growing up I wanted to be a Priest, however plans change and I became a Pastry chef. Asking me this question now, I would like to be publish my own cookbook with desserts that I have created at Miku.

See Part 2 as we go behind the scenes with Chris into the kitchen.

By: Richard Wolak

Interview with Thierry Busset

Theirry_Busset8.26.09 050

Thierry Busset | Vancouver

Vancouver is home to some of the best pastry chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Star Pastry Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver.

My interview with Thierry Busset turned out to be more like an afternoon conversation of two plus hours that had us talking not only about him and his macarons, and the people who he has worked with over the years in France, England and in Canada, his role as the Pastry Chef at CinCin and his love for being creative.

What is your role at CinCin? Please describe in detail.

I am the head pastry chef and I create all the desserts with the help of my assistants who I oversee, from A-Z including the dough, jam and syrups. 90% of pastry is produced in the kitchen in the restaurant.

I create 7-8 desserts daily and I create the dessert menu so that people could pick 4 or 5 that they would like to have. I try to showcase what is in season, hot or cold and most of all create balance. The waiters are educated on the desserts so that they are able to describe and sell them to their customers.

Where did you do your training to become a Pastry Chef?

I did my apprenticeship for two years in Riom in Auvergne, France where I was born, in a patisserie shop and then I moved to another pastry shop in Roanne, where the chef was a member of the Relais Desserts. In the kitchen there is the Relais & Chateaux, in pastry there is the Relais Desserts. You’ve got one chef who is a member in each city in France, maybe two in Lyon, two or three in Paris –Pierre Herme is one of them. I stayed there for two years. I moved to Auberge du Pere Dubise, a two-star Michelin in Talloire, on Lake Annecy. I moved to London and worked for the Rioux brothers at Le Gavroche and I was working with Gordon Ramsay and Stephen Terry.

How long have you been involved in the restaurant industry?

25 years in the pastry business in total, however in the beginning I spent 5 years working in a pastry shop and then 20 years working in the restaurant industry.

Where did you work prior to joining CinCin?

I worked at Le Gavroche in London (this is where many famous chefs worked as well including my friend Gordon Ramsay) for 2 years, then 7 years for Marco Pierre White, , including his role as pastry chef of The Restaurant in the Hyde Park Hotel, which was awarded its third Michelin Star during his tenure.

I went to Amsterdam after and worked at The Grand Hotel, a place where Albert Roux was a consultant, and one of my best friends, Stephen Dougherty, was the chef. Stephen was one of the chefs who helped Albert Roux get the third Michelin star at Le Gavroche and helped open a lot of restaurants for him. I then went on to Ireland, Belfast, the Caribean and then Vancouver.

What are your favourite three desserts that you make?

1) Apple Tart – fruity not much sugar

2) Lime Mouse Cake –merang, cream, lime juice and zest

3) Chocolate Truffles – ganache rolled in plain chocolate

What do you most love about being a pastry chef?

Creativity, I enjoy working with ice carvings, working with sugar I can create flowers and animals, working with chocolate and cake. I like being artistic and enjoy working with my hands.

Have you thought about competing in a pastry award comptetition?

One day, I would like to compete in the M.O.F. (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) in France, it is a competition Patissier Award that is held every 4 years and awards 4-5 winners.

What tips would you offer young pastry chefs just getting started?

Patience is the key, learn the craft slowly, be artistic, must have the eye, have a strong mind, know what you want to achieve. Keep learning, find the right teacher and you must listen.

What cities do you like for culinary travel?

For food (not pastry) my favourite places are Italy, Spain, France, England and Melbourne, Australia.

What are your goals and dreams as a pastry chef?

To open my own French pastry shop and this is currently in the planning stage along with Jack Evrensel, we are going to open this shop together in Vancouver after we secure the location.

I love your Coffee Macarons, tell me what inspired you to create these?

The macarons have existed for the last 200 years, a biscuit from France. I was inspired by Pierre Herme who is a French pastry cheg and makes these macarons moist. They are French meringue with a ganache cream sandwiches between 2 macarons. Theirry_Busset8.26.09 041

Which wine would be best paired with your Coffee Macarons?

Any red wine would be the best, port or grappa would be good too. Amarone would be good with the chocolate macarons.

What do you consider to be the five must have ingredients in your pantry?

1) Butter

2) Vegetables (tomatoes)

3) Cream

4) Coffee

5) Chocolate

Who are some of your mentors? What have you learned from them?

1) Bernard Sicard – worked 2 years as apprentice in France

2) Joseph Pilati – finished learning in pastry

3) Albert Roux + Michel Roux Jr. –learned the restaurant side

4) Marco Pierre White – learned to be consistent, how to do business

5) Christopher Marquant – he was a Pastry Chef in France who is now in Boston – I learned a lot from him.

If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Something artistic, I would be an architect or a wood carver.

Stay tuned for Part 2 as we go behind the scenes with Thierry into the kitchen.

By: Richard Wolak

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