I had an incredible visit to Oaxaca, a city that I have fallen in love with for its food, street art, and warm hospitality.

Oaxaca is a land where time seems to fold in on itself, blending the grandeur of ancient civilizations with a vibrant, living present. Tucked into the rugged Sierra Madre mountains of southern Mexico, it is a state defined by its profound indigenous roots—most notably the Zapotec and Mixtec—which breathe life into every street corner through kaleidoscopic textiles, intricate alebrijes, and the haunting beauty of the Monte Albán ruins. Often hailed as the culinary soul of Mexico, Oaxaca seduces the senses with the smoky depths of mezcal and the complex, velvety layers of its seven legendary moles. Whether you are wandering the emerald-quarry stone streets of its colonial capital or exploring the sun-drenched Pacific coastline, Oaxaca offers a sensory richness that feels both deeply sacred and irrepressibly festive.

Some of the eating highlights included:

Levadura de Olla @LevaduradeOlla one of my favourite Michelin starred restaurant meals here with the Requeson (cheese) tamale and squash blossom with mole Coloradito and mole negro to start followed by the Native squash with white Pipian (pumpkin seed sauce) and mint wiith corn tortillas; and for dessert the Tamala pumpkin flan.

Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante @casaoaxacaelrestaurante my other favourite Michelin starred restaurant started off with a House made tortilla with Oaxaca cheese and Tableside made salsa; I then had the outstanding Squash blossoms, ricotta, sweet potato, plantain purée; followed by the Zarandeado style Whole fish with caper mole sauce, smoked broccoli and prune; and for dessert the Sierra de chocolate.

Restaurante Taniperla Oaxaca @restaurante_taniperla_oaxaca a great find for dinner where google translate was the only way to know what to order. I had the delicious Enchiladas de mole chiapaneco; followed by the Neapolitan flan with fruit jam.

Tierra del Sol Oaxaca @tierradelsol.oaxaca for an after dinner visit for their traditional Hot chocolate with water; and a delicious Guava pastry.

I took a wonderful Oaxacan cooking class with Chef Mimi and her son Charlie who assisted her at their Maiz Cocina Tradicional cooking school.

Once In Oaxaca @once.in.oaxaca for a Cortado in the artsy Jalatlaco neighbourhood where I stayed.

Las Quince Letras Restaurante @lasquinceletrasoax Bib Gourmand Michelin restaurant with traditional food; had the Chicken in Almond Mole.

There are many more great restaurants and cafes in the city to discover which I look forward to do on a future visit.

By: Richard Wolak