Vancouver is home to some of the best chefs in the world, many have worked for the top chefs and restaurants around the world as well as around the city. Dishing with the Chefs is a series of Interviews with some of the top chefs in and around Vancouver.

Executive Chef Martin Vargas grew up in Tijuana, Mexico, he attended culinary school in Tijuana in 2006. Afterwards he did some stages in Mexico City, first at Biko in 2010 for 2 years where he learned a lot. He then work for Jair Tellez who also mentored him and worked at all of his restaurants. He then did an internship in Paris, France for a year (Le Chateau Briand) a French restaurant (owner was from the Basque country). He returned to Mexico City in 2016 to work for Jair Tellez again and at that time; Jair was planning to open a restaurant in Vancouver with his friend Ernesto Gomez; Jair asked Martin if he would like to move to Vancouver and be the head Chef. In 2017, Martin moved to Vancouver and became the head chef of Fayuca (he did this for 2 years before the owners decided to relocate the restaurant). In the Summer of 2019, the owners of Fayuca were working on relocating the restaurant which was too open in the spring of 2020 just when the pandemic happened. That changed everything, he ended up moving over to Chancho Tortilleria in 2020 to help them out for a short while. In 2021 he joined forces with Ernesto Gomez and another partner and opened Alimentaria Mexicana on Granville Island where he is the Executive Chef.

You can follow Chef Martin Rodrigo Vargas on instagram @martinrodvargas

What does Alimentaria Mexicana mean?

A gathering around food and drinks, a place in our imagination that would not only be a restaurant, we had a bigger plan in mind, to offer workshops, Mezcal tastings, a coffee program and a market in addition to the restaurant.

Can you tell me about some Endemic Plants that you focus on in your restaurant?

Tomatoes

Tomatillos

Nopales

Agave

What Challenges have you Encountered in the first 3 years of your restaurant?

Not expecting to be as busy as we have been.

We have had to pivot several times as we have staffed, and done things to continue surviving and growing our operations.

Through the food we are now cooking what we want to cook.

Tell me about your Corn program

We use a cooking technique called Nixtamalization, it is a process for the preparation of maize, or other grain, in which the grain is soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution, usually limewater, washed, and then hulled. One of my partners is also partners with other in Chancho Tortilleria and they do this process at their restaurant and then supply us with the corn masa to make various products in our restaurant.

What do you do with the Masa?

We make tortillas, tamale, sopes and tiacoyos.

Can you tell me what the different colours of corn tortillas taste like?

Yellow corn — is bright and neutral and have a stronger corn flavour.

White corn — have an oaky, nutty flavour

Blue corn — are slightly sweet

Red corn — have a slightly rich and earthy flavour

What are your favourite Restaurants in Vancouver outside of your own?

Maruhachi Ramen

Chancho Tortillieria

Ask for Luigi

Phnom Penh

Farmers Apprentice

Gary’s

Salmon and Bannock

What are your favourite Ingredients to cook with?

Seafood — any type, oysters, sea urchin, mussels, lobster

Corn

Dried chilis

What are your favourite Mexican spices to use?

Coriander seeds

Mexican oregano

Star anise

Avocado leafs

1st Dish:

Beet Ceviche

Ingredients:

red beets

cucumber

jicama

tomatoes

onions

gremolata

edamame hummus

avocado

peashoots

Inspiration:

A vegan ceviche, taking advantage of the beautiful BC beets and the delicious and vibrant earthiness of the flavour. Enjoy it with fresh corn tostadas and salsa jalapeno.

Tell me about your Beer Company that you just launched

I spent the past 5 years making home brews with my wife and another couple. We were all playing soccer on Sunday nights and would go for beers afterwards visiting all the different local breweries. This activity sparked and idea and we all decided to start a company together, this is a side business for me and it is called Ritual Beer Co. We created a business plan and are using a contract brewing company locally with our recipes and are currently selling the beer at Chancho Tortillieria, Alimentaria Mexicana and soon to other restaurants.

Where did you travel to most recently?

Oaxaca

Tell me about Oaxaca

There are different regions and each region has different traditions, cultures and origins. They still use some ancient cooking techniques such as cooking with fire making moles, and other dishes.

2nd dish:

Sopes Vegetarianos

Ingredients:

poblano peppers

caramelized onions

corn

crema

feta cheese

heirloom corn masa

radishes

peashooots

Inspiration:

Sopes are a traditional food in Mexican cuisine. This vegetarian version is inspired in “Rajas con Crema”, charred poblano peppers sauteed with onions and fresh corn. The Sope has crispy masa and it is the ideal vessel for this traditional veggie stew.

What Mezcal would you pair with your Beet Ceviche?

Sotol (La Higuera) Dasyliryon, 48% alc, Aldama, Chihuahua Mtra Geraldo Ruelas.

3rd dish:

Asado De Bodas

Ingredients:

pork braised

oregano

pepper

cumin

guadillo

avocado pit

ancho

orange zest

cloves

white rice

flour tortillas

Inspiration:

This recipe is from one of my chefs that recently joined us from the Monterey region of Mexico.

What are you interests?

Beer explorer

swim

hiking

running

ski

gatherings with friends and cooking

What do you like to Cook at home?

I like to cook simple at home; cheese omelettes, pancakes and quesadillas.

I heard your just opened a cafe within your restaurant, please tell me about it

Yes we just added a cafe program to our restaurant and we are offering a selection of espresso beverages and baked goods from the morning through to the afternoon, we still have our market area where people can purchase spices, salsas and now they can also get coffee beans and merch.

What does the future hold for Alimentaria Mexicana?

Now and into the future we are changing and developing the menu, adding new dishes and developing by telling the stories, communicating with an open mind. We are talking about communities in Mexico and nurturing.

Stay tuned for the next chef in the Dishing with the Chef series.

By: Richard Wolak